In the age of TikTok, cancel culture, and shifting social values, the definition of beauty is no longer confined to narrow ideals. Brands that once dominated the fashion industry are now being held accountable for their lack of inclusivity. One such brand, Victoria’s Secret, faced a reckoning in the late 2010s, when its glamorous fashion shows, often perceived as the pinnacle of high-fashion lingerie, became the centre of fierce public criticism.  

For years, the annual Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show was a cultural event, a dazzling spectacle featuring supermodels —dubbed “Angels” — strutting down elaborate runways, donning lingerie adorned with extravagant wings. But the show began to feel out of sync with the cultural moment, particularly as movements like body positivity and inclusivity gained momentum. Public outrage peaked in 2018, following comments by the then chief marketing officer, Ed Razek, who dismissed the idea of including plus-size and transgender models in the show, sparking widespread backlash.

As consumer values shifted and ratings declined, Victoria’s Secret’s glossy image and outdated ideals were no longer celebrated but critiqued. In 2019, the iconic fashion show was cancelled after 23 years, marking the end of an era.

Lekha Washington | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

A comeback rooted in change

Fast-forward to 2024: after a five-year hiatus, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is making a return. Set to air on October 16 in the United States, this revival marks more than just a reappearance — it signals a significant rebranding. The brand, once synonymous with unattainable beauty ideals, has undergone a transformation, embracing body diversity and inclusivity. This time, they are doing things differently.

In a move to reclaim its cultural relevance, Victoria’s Secret has partnered with artists worldwide to reimagine one of its most iconic elements: the wings. These wings, once a symbol of the unattainable beauty perpetuated by the brand, are now being repurposed as a celebration of individuality and empowerment through art. In India, three murals have been created and unveiled across malls in major cities — Phoenix Palladium (Mumbai), Ambience Mall (Delhi), and Phoenix Mall of Asia (Bengaluru) — in the lead-up to the show.

These wing installations are not just artistic displays; they represent the brand’s acknowledgment of past missteps and an effort to align itself with a more inclusive, authentic narrative. And at the heart of this creative project in India is Mumbai-based artist, Lekha Washington.

Art meets empowerment

Lekha, known for her innovative designs, brings her unique artistic vision to the forefront of this collaboration. Her iconic Red Dot Chair — a project that emphasises individuality and inner strength — serves as the inspiration for the wing murals. For Lekha, merging her artistic sensibilities with Victoria’s Secret’s evolving brand identity was a natural progression.

“The Red Dot Chair is deeply personal to me. It celebrates individuality, something we often overlook,” Lekha explains. “Blending this concept with the Victoria’s Secret wings allowed me to create an expression of inner strength and empowerment.”

Her designs for the three wings draw from a range of materials, textures, and unexpected elements. One mural features wings made from fabric, designed to mimic feathers, ribbons, and beads, while another takes the form of unfurling ribbons, symbolising celebration. The final installation, perhaps the most striking, is a frozen splash of paint — crafted from silicone and brass — capturing movement and spontaneity in time.

Each installation is distinct but unified by Lekha’s artistic ethos: a commitment to individuality and the celebration of human strength.

A shift in creative direction

Collaborating with a brand as commercial and globally recognised as Victoria’s Secret might seem like a challenge for an artist committed to preserving their creative integrity, but Lekha navigates this balance with ease.

“I don’t undertake collaborations that don’t resonate with my ethos,” Lekha says. “Victoria’s Secret allowed me the freedom to bring my vision to life. Each installation tells a story, not just about the brand, but about celebrating the individual who experiences it. It’s about confidence, inner strength, and empowerment.”

Her work in this project, while commercial, remains deeply personal. “Art is a self-fuelling passion. Each project I take on feeds into the next, and these wing installations are no different. They are an extension of my creative journey.”

A brand in transition

As Victoria’s Secret steps into a new chapter, it’s clear the brand is aiming for more than just a return to the limelight. The partnership with artists like Lekha and the reimagining of their iconic wings symbolise a shift — one that’s focussed on inclusivity, empowerment, and a more authentic portrayal of femininity. The brand is no longer just about selling lingerie; it is striving to create a narrative that resonates with modern consumers who prioritise diversity and individuality.