Deirdre Mullins explores Belfast's hip bars, trendy markets and world-class museums and finds that the city has it all.

What I like the most about Belfast is the warmth and friendliness of the locals. From the coffee vendor at St. George’s Market, who cheerfully shared his chocolate stash because it "will be nice with your coffee", to the man strolling with his family at Belfast Castle, who stopped us with a friendly "Are ye from Dublin?"- an ice breaker that sparked a lively chat about our city’s quirks - every encounter felt welcoming.

16 years ago, on my last visit, I noticed the same affability, but I put this down to tourists being a bit of a novelty. Now, 26 years after the Good Friday Agreement, Belfast is a bustling visitor hub, yet the locals have held on to their welcoming nature.

No tourist board can manufacture this kind of hospitality, and while I experienced plenty of fascinating sights and activities, the people left the biggest impression on me.

There is no denying Belfast's troubled past, but the city has undergone a remarkable transformation thanks to the peace process and significant capital investment. Today, Belfast buzzes with life as tourists flock to the iconic Titanic museum, soak up the vibrant nightlife and uncover the city’s stories through its striking political murals and tours.

Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie or a culture seeker, this 48-hour itinerary will ensure you experience the best of Belfast.

Friday

I arrived in Belfast around midday after a smooth two-hour train journey from Dublin. It was a short walk from Belfast Grand Central Station to the Ten Square Hotel, and I was delighted to find my room ready for check-in.

Housed in a former linen warehouse, the hotel boasted a contemporary style and an unbeatable location - just a stroll from Belfast’s top sights, bars, and restaurants. My room had a great view of Belfast City Hall and Donegall Square, and the scene was set for a great weekend.

First, though, I needed food, and a hearty pub lunch was in order. I headed to The Crown Bar - a Belfast institution for over 150 years. While the food hit the spot, the beautiful restored Victorian interior stole the show. Ornate woodwork, stained glass, and cosy snugs felt like we had stepped back in time.

With lunch wrapped up, I was ready for my next adventure: my Black Cabs Tour, a unique and insightful way to explore Belfast’s history. Our driver, Eugene, drove his cab around the Falls and Shankill Roads and shared the history of The Troubles and personal stories of what life was like at that time.

He pointed to murals that told the stories of division, resilience, and hope. On the Falls Road, I saw vibrant republican murals celebrating figures like Bobby Sands, while on the Shankill Road, we visited Queen’s Corner, home to murals of the British royal family.

At one point, I stopped at the Peace Wall, a towering barrier that still separates the communities. Eugene handed me a marker and told me it was tradition to write a message on the wall; unsure of what to say, I simply wrote "Peace & Love".

The tour is a must-do for anyone visiting Belfast; not only a fascinating journey through the city’s history, but it provides a deeper understanding of its character and the resilience of its people.

Afterwards, I headed to the Belfast Christmas Market, which has brought festival cheer to the city for 20 years. It’s by far the best Christmas market I’ve visited in Ireland. With over 100 local and international traders, the market offered a fantastic selection of handcrafted goods and artisan products. I browsed the stalls, sipping hot chocolate and treating myself to homemade fudge. There’s a food court if you’re looking for something more substantial, as well as Santa’s grotto and vintage helter-skelter for the kids.

If you want more shopping, stroll around the nearby streets, including Donegall Place and Royal Avenue. Check out Born & Bread on Ann Street, a treasure trove of local handmade products and humorous Belfast artworks. The Victoria Square Shopping Centre is a modern open-air mall home to more than 70 stores and restaurants.

Top tip: Take the lift to the glass dome to see stunning city views.

After pounding the pavement all day, I relaxed in the hotel before dinner at Yügo, which deserves its place in the Michelin guide. Located in an unassuming alleyway, the friendly staff serve delicious small plates of Asian fusion cooking complemented by Asian-inspired cocktails. The Iberico pork and torched seabass are a must.

Afterwards, I walked (Belfast is a very walkable city) to the Cathedral Quarter for a digestif at the quirky Muriel’s Bar, known for its eclectic decor and impressive gin collection. From there, I spent the night immersed in live jazz at Bert’s Jazz Bar, part of the luxurious 5-star Merchant Hotel. It felt very 1930s New York with its art deco style décor and a crooner belting some soulful tunes.

Saturday

The perfect way to blow off the cobwebs is a walk around Cave Hill Country Park, where you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city. The park offers a variety of trails, ranging from 1 to 7 km, but when I arrived, the weather took a turn for the worse, so I opted for the shorter one, which meanders around the grounds of Belfast Castle.

The wet weather was a blessing in disguise, allowing me the time to visit Crumlin Road Gaol, which several locals had recommended. The Victorian-era prison, now a museum, was in operation from 1846 until 1996. The guided tour was fully booked, so I opted for the self-guided one, which proved to be excellent. The interactive display used a combination of video, audio and holograms to tell the history of the gaol and its staff and prisoners.

Particularly poignant were the accounts of children subjected to inhuman treatment during Victorian times. The narratives of the former political prisoners sharing their experiences of being inmates during The Troubles added a personal dimension to the experience. One sobering moment was visiting the execution chamber, a chilling insight into the justice system at the time.

A bit of light relief was needed after such an emotionally charged tour, so I headed to St. George’s Market for lunch. Housed in a red brick Victorian market, it’s open from Friday to Sunday. The atmosphere was lively and was enhanced by a talented trad band banging out some tunes for the crowd. I spent some time perusing the food and craft stalls before settling on a hearty bowl of fresh seafood chowder. I was tempted by the famous Belfast Bap, a towering pile of breakfast meats in a soft bap, but I needed to leave room for dinner.

It was just a 20-minute walk along the River Lagan from St. George’s to the Titanic Belfast. The building is a visual masterpiece, designed to resemble the ship’s bow with gleaming aluminium panels. Inside is the world-class museum that offers an immersive journey through the history of the Titanic: its construction, sinking, and its legacy. It features nine interactive galleries providing different perspectives on the story.

Not to be missed is The Shipyard, where a cable car-like ride takes you through the shipbuilding process, complete with the sounds of hammers and machinery and a voice-over narrating the experience of the workers.

Another highlight is The Fit-Out, which showcases detailed recreations of the ship’s luxurious interiors and accommodations in different classes. In 2023, the museum unveiled a £4.5 million investment, introducing four new themed galleries. Among these, Never Again chillingly examines the combining factors that led to the massive loss of life. The Ship of Dreams has a 7.6 meter-long illuminated scale model of the ship rotating and suspended from the ceiling.

After pounding the streets and museums of Belfast, I was exhausted and opted for a more relaxed evening. I started with dinner at Home Restaurant before heading to The Observatory bar on the 23rd floor of the Grand Central Hotel for a nightcap. A cocktail will set you back around €20, but the 360-degree views of Belfast make it worth it.

Sunday

Before catching the train, I had a few hours to explore. First, I did a whistle-stop tour of an exhibition at The MAC Arts Centre (MAC). I See His Blood Upon the Rose, showing historical and contemporary floral-themed artwork. The MAC is known for its dynamic programming, hosting theatre and events, and has a cafe, making it a versatile cultural spot.

Next, I quickly looked around The Common Market, which offers street food, a bar and sometimes live music. If I had more time, I would have happily stayed for lunch. Instead, I opted for a liquid refreshment in The Sunflower pub.

With its distinctive security cage at the front, a relic from the 80s, the pub offers an evocative connection to the city’s history. While the cage is no longer needed, it symbolises Belfast’s resilience and transformation. It felt like the perfect stop to toast to a city that wears its troubles and charm with equal pride.

Cheers, Belfast!

Deirdre Mullins was a guest of Tourism Northen Ireland. For more information please visit www.discovernorthernireland.com