Some people are known for their jewellery. From Princess Diana’s sapphires to Liz Taylor’s diamonds, finding a signature accessory is an extension of your style.
Finding the perfect piece that complements you isn’t an easy task. How can you tell whether to go for gold or silver – or even mixed metals? Expert jewellers share their hacks.
Determine whether your skin tone is warm, cool, or neutral
The first step to finding the perfect metal is to determine your skin tone.
"Understanding your skin tone is key to finding jewellery that flatters you," explains Pandora UK‘s jewellery expert, Emma Fox.
"For a quick test, try the "white paper" trick to see whether your undertones skew warm or cool," says Fox. "Simply hold a white sheet of paper near your face in natural light and see how your skin looks.
"If it appears yellow or golden, you have warm undertones. If it looks pink or blue-ish, you have cool undertones, and if you notice a mix of both, you’re likely neutral."
Warm undertones often suit yellow or rose gold jewellery, whilst cool often suits silver or white gold. If you have a neutral skin tone, you can wear almost any metal and it will flatter your complexion.
It’s also important to take into account your hair and eye colour. "If you have darker hair and eyes, bold, vibrant pieces are your best friend. Yellow gold on its own paired with deep reds and rich greens create a striking contrast, really enhancing your natural warmth," says Clogau‘s managing director Ben Roberts.
"For those with lighter eyes like blue or green – silver or white gold tends to be the ideal match, giving a clean, polished look," explains Roberts, "and if you’re blonde or have lighter hair, rose gold is your go-to, while pastel gemstones like soft blues or pinks will add a subtle charm."
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The effect of gemstones
Whilst the shade of a metal can lift or dull your complexion, gemstones can change their effect all together. "The colour of gemstones affects how the metal complements your skin," says THOMAS SABO’s creative director, Aurore Melot. "Colourful zirconia, lab-grown sapphires, and natural stones like tiger’s eye or rose quartz pair beautifully with both silver and gold."
"Diamonds are universally flattering and suit all skin tones, hair colours, and eye colours," explains Beaverbrooks‘ head of diamonds and jewellery, Lorna Haddon. "Their neutral sparkle complements both cool and warm undertones, making them a timeless and versatile choice for anyone.
"Coloured gemstones, meanwhile, can add a layer of individuality and personal expression to your jewellery," says Haddon. "For example, emeralds beautifully enhance green or hazel eyes, while sapphires create a striking contrast with blue eyes. Rubies, with their rich red tones, are stunning against brown eyes."
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The best hypoallergenic options
There’s probably been occasions where you’ve worn your favourite silver ring then taken it off at the end of the day, only to be left with a green band around your finger.
Opting for high-quality metals will lessen the likelihood of allergic reactions and irritations.
"Platinum is naturally hypoallergenic and offers a sleek, silver-white finish," says Fox. "It’s an excellent option for those with sensitive skin and is highly durable."
If you want a more affordable option, nickel-free gold and sterling silver are the best options. "Gold alloyed without nickel is gentle on the skin and comes in various shades to suit different undertones," says Fox. "Pure sterling silver (free from nickel) is another skin-friendly choice, offering classic silver tones.
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The most long-lasting option
When it comes to picking a piece that you can pass down for generations, the colour matters less than the material.
"Solid silver or plated silver jewellery will wear much better than jewellery made of base metals, such as brass," says founder of Dower & Hall, Diane Hall. "Even the best-quality jewellery in the world will wear with time, though, so it’s best to follow the brand’s jewellery care instructions to ensure your pieces last a lifetime."
Fox suggests cleaning your jewellery regularly using mild soap and avoiding abrasive cleaners to prevent scratches.
"To prevent tarnishing, store in anti-tarnish bags or add silica gel packets to your jewellery box to reduce moisture," suggests Fox.
To get the most wear out of your jewellery – it goes without saying that removing your precious metals before swimming, showering or applying lotions and perfumes is key.